Artificial grass installation depends on what lies beneath it. The infill that tops the turf, the base layer that supports it, the drainage system that carries water away, and the finishing details that hold it all together determine whether your turf stays flat and clean for years or develops odors, puddles, seams that lift, and bare spots. This guide walks through each layer and decision, so you understand what goes into a real installation and what questions to ask before work begins.
Fresno's flat valley terrain, sandy loam and hardpan soils, and 105-degree summers place specific demands on turf base preparation and drainage. Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area that needs to drain fast and stay odor-free, a pool surround, or a patio or balcony, the principles are the same: remove what was there, build a properly compacted base, install drainage that works, and finish the seams and edges so the turf stays in place and looks finished.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material you spread on top of artificial grass after installation. It settles into the fibers, props them upright so they look natural and feel substantial underfoot, protects the backing from ultraviolet light, adds weight so the turf does not shift, and plays a role in drainage and odor control. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is affordable and does the job. Silica comes in different grades and colors, from coarse to fine, and is often the baseline cost in any estimate.
Coated sand infills round off the sharp edges of silica grains, making them gentler on bare feet and pets, and are often colored to complement the turf blade. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odors, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs where drainage speed and odor control matter most. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in Fresno's intense heat. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is a sports-field infill for impact absorption and is rarely used in residential yards. The choice of infill depends on your use, your budget, and whether pets or odor is a concern. Ask your installer which infill they recommend for your specific application and request the choice in writing.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and the amount matters. Too little infill means the turf fibers do not stand up properly, the backing gets exposed to sunlight and degrades faster, and the turf feels thin and unstable underfoot. Too much infill can make the turf feel heavy and can slow drainage. The right amount depends on the turf product itself, the fiber type, the pile height, and the intended use. A typical residential turf might call for 1.5 to 2.5 pounds per square foot, while a pet area or a sports surface might need more. These are ranges, not promises, because every product is different and every yard is different.
The only way to know the correct infill amount for your turf is to ask your installer to specify it in writing before work begins. A cheap installation often skips or reduces infill to cut costs and speed up the job. When you ask for an estimate, request the infill type and the pounds per square foot in the written spec. This single detail tells you whether the installer understands the product and is planning to do the job right. If an installer cannot or will not give you this figure in writing, that is a red flag.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass starts with removing what is already there. If you have an old lawn, dead grass, or existing turf, it must be stripped away along with the roots and thatch layer, down to bare soil. If you have old turf that is lifting at the seams or failing, it is removed completely. Once the surface is cleared, the soil is excavated to the depth required by your base specification, typically two to four inches depending on the site and the drainage needs. The excavation also allows you to establish a slope or grade so water runs away from the house and away from any pool or patio, rather than pooling in low spots.
After excavation, a weed barrier fabric is laid where appropriate to prevent weeds from pushing up through the turf over time. Then comes the base layer, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. On top of that, depending on the application, you may install an optional draining underlay or pad, especially for pet areas, play spaces, or hard surfaces like patios and balconies where comfort and drainage speed matter. Finally, the turf itself is laid over the prepared base. On concrete, balconies, or any hard surface that holds water, the turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining underlay or pad goes down first, and edge drainage is installed to carry water away from the edges.
Base Prep on Fresno Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Fresno's soils are typically sandy loam in some areas and hardpan in others, both of which present challenges for drainage. Sandy loam drains quickly but can be unstable if not compacted, leading to settling and soft spots. Hardpan, a dense clay layer, drains poorly and can trap water, causing puddles and odor problems under the turf. Base preparation begins with excavation to remove the existing lawn and roots, then grading the excavated area so it slopes gently away from the house, the pool, or any structure. The base material, usually three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, is then spread and compacted in lifts using a plate compactor, not by hand or foot traffic. Each lift should be compacted firmly before the next is added. Proper compaction creates a stable, well-draining platform that supports the turf evenly and prevents the dips, puddles, and soft spots that develop when the base is left loose or uneven.
If your yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or a high water table, the base preparation must account for this before the turf goes down. In some cases, additional grading, a French drain, or a swale may be needed to direct water away from the turf area. If a yard has a genuine water problem that cannot be solved with proper base preparation and slope, we address the drainage issue first or decline the job, because turf laid on a wet or poorly draining base will fail. This is not a sales concern; it is the honest foundation of a long-lasting installation. Always consult the Fresno building department if your site involves significant grading or drainage work.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass itself must be permeable so water passes through it quickly. The backing of the turf can be either perforated, with small holes punched through it to allow drainage, or fully permeable, a woven material that lets water through at a measured rate. Drainage rate is specified in gallons per hour per square foot, a technical measure of how fast water moves through the turf. A faster drainage rate means water does not sit on the surface and does not pool around the fibers. For most residential yards, a drainage rate of 15 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot is adequate. For pet areas and spaces that see heavy use or occasional heavy rain, a faster rate is better because it prevents water from sitting in the infill where odors develop and bacteria can grow.
However, even the fastest-draining turf will fail if the base beneath it does not drain. If water cannot move through the compacted base and away from the site, it will pool under the turf, creating soft spots, odors, and eventual failure of the backing. This is why base preparation and slope are just as important as the turf's drainage rate. In addition to the turf and base, an underlay or pad may be installed between them, especially on hard surfaces like patios, balconies, or pool surrounds. These underlays provide drainage, cushioning, and thermal insulation. Ask your installer for the drainage rate of the turf in writing and confirm that the base is designed to drain as well.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The difference between a professional installation and a rushed one shows up in the seams, edges, and finishing details. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet. In a real installation, seams are joined using seam tape and seam adhesive, applied to the backing so the two pieces bond together. The grain of the turf, the direction the fibers lean, must be aligned across the seam so it looks seamless and the fibers bend the same way on both sides. A visible seam, a seam that is raised or has a ridge, or fibers that point in different directions across a seam are signs that the seam was not done properly. Nails or staples hold the turf to the base around the perimeter and at seams, spaced at the correct intervals so the turf does not shift or wrinkle. Too few fasteners and the turf will move; too many and you risk tearing the backing.
Edges must be clean and secure. Bender board, metal edging, or landscape borders hold the perimeter of the turf in place and give the yard a finished look. On patios and hard surfaces, the turf is cut tight to the pavers or decking so water drains away and the edge does not catch or trip. After all seams and edges are complete, the turf is power broomed, a mechanical process that stands the fibers upright and spreads the infill evenly across the surface. Power brooming also removes any debris left from installation and helps the turf settle into its final appearance. A yard that is not power broomed will look flat and uneven, and the infill will be concentrated in footprints and high-traffic areas.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before you sign an agreement or make a deposit, ask your installer to provide a written specification that details every material and method going into your installation. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fiber type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth in inches, the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier is used, the seam method and seam tape type, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off of old turf and debris, and the workmanship warranty period. This spec is your contract. It prevents misunderstandings and gives you a standard against which to measure the finished work.
A written spec also protects you if something goes wrong. If the turf settles or develops puddles, you can refer back to the spec and ask whether the base was compacted as specified. If seams lift or separate, the spec shows what adhesive and tape should have been used. If the turf feels thin or looks flat, the spec shows the infill amount that should be there. Without a spec, you have no way to verify that the work was done correctly. When you get an estimate, ask for the spec in writing. Review it carefully and ask questions about anything you do not understand. If an installer resists putting the details in writing, that is a reason to ask for another estimate. For a free on-site measurement and a detailed written estimate, contact Fresno Turf Installation at (559) 860-0036 or request a free estimate. See the pricing page for typical ranges based on your application.